🔗 Share this article

The distinct aroma of red chilli powder hangs in the air at a production facility in Incheon. Within, brined napa cabbage rests in sizeable industrial containers during the first step of a time-honored procedure.

"It's now considered a world food from Korea, but this makes no sense," notes a factory owner. "This market has been captured."

The struggle is due to a increasing trade imbalance. South Korea imports a greater volume of kimchi than it exports, with lower-cost Chinese-produced products dominating in the domestic market.

The Price Disparity

Kimchi from China is priced for restaurants at approximately 1,700 won per kilogram. In contrast, Korean-made versions average about 3,600 won per kilogram—more than double the price.

In the first ten months of the year, the value of imports stood at $159 million, almost entirely from China, while overseas sales were valued at $137 million.

More Than Just Cabbage

Kimchi is a fundamental part of culinary tradition on the Korean peninsula. Its definition encompasses far more than the spicy cabbage most familiar to international diners.

• There are more than 150 known varieties, made with radish, cucumber, spring onions and other vegetables.
• They are seasoned with mixtures of chilli powder, garlic, ginger and jeotgal.
• The fermentation process produces beneficial lactic acid bacteria, contributing to its reputation as a nutritious food.

Changing Consumption

Historically, families prepared large quantities together during kimjang, a practice recognised by UNESCO. However, how Koreans consume kimchi are changing.

One-person homes have increased dramatically since 2000, now accounting for more than 36% of all households. As a result, fewer people prepare it domestically.

Instead, it is increasingly consumed pre-packaged or while eating out, where it is provided complimentary with every meal. Asking payment for such a basic side dish would be inconceivable.

The Producer's Plight

"If you avoid losses and don’t go bankrupt, that’s already fortunate," comments a producer. "For many of us over the past decade, we could not afford to upgrade in equipment."

‘A Food That Contains Our Soul’

Economic realities mean that price, rather than provenance or method, is now the decisive factor.

One producer who has operated a facility for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as Chinese imports became popular. "Is it right to use imported kimchi when this is a food that contains our people’s soul?" he says. "It’s truly heartbreaking."

Additional Challenges

The pressures are worsened by the climate crisis, which is disrupting cabbage farming. Growing in summer has become harder in usual highland growing areas, causing wholesale cabbage prices to sharply increase from one year to the next.

Authorities and producers are developing hardier cabbage types and improved storage systems, but trade associations question whether these steps can offset the economic pressures.

Around three-quarters of the nation's kimchi manufacturers are very small enterprises with a handful of employees, relying on labour-intensive methods that struggle to compete with industrial-scale production in China.

Seeking Solutions

The sector is attempting to adapt, though with limited tools.

• A voucher scheme offers restaurants a financial incentive to return to using domestically produced kimchi.
• There are calls for stricter checks of declared import prices for kimchi.
• Government initiatives include origin labeling programs for restaurants, farm aid for cabbage growers, and research to extend kimchi’s shelf life for export.

A Matter of Taste

Ultimately, many believe that superior quality remains the local industry's best asset.

"Korean kimchi has a distinct flavor," says an expert. "It is impossible to copy."